Day 7, Friday the 13th; 2 Star you say?

Bittersweet departure this morning from Refugio Amazona to Puerto Maldonado. On a good note we can escape the heat and humidity (Lana says it feel exactly the same here!), but we are giving up the wild jungle and its sounds, smells, animals, reptiles, birds, insects, trees etc. We will miss this incredible bio-diversity and realizing its days are numbered long term. 

I have come to my own realization that our homo sapiens species does not belong here except for the indigenous tribes that live in harmony with the wild jungle. A little sorrow for me that their rainforest is disappearing as our 'civilized' species only destroys.

Map from Rainforest Expeditions of where our Refugio fits with the Tambopata River and the National Reserve. Puerto Maldonado is north of the Refugio. 

We are up early around 06:30 as we need to have our luggage outside our room by 07:00. Of course, it is not until 07:25 that it is actually picked up by staff.   😏

We are ready on time and out for our last meal at the Refugio. Breakfast buffet not ready at the time promised, but it was ready for 07:15. We are scheduled to leave at 07:45. Unfortunately, Lana still experiencing her heat stroke symptoms so not eating but did manage a few sips of tea and watermelon juice. We need to tip our guide Dennys in US dollars. Howler monkeys are doing their very high-pitched noise making already but sounds are not very loud so much be farther away today. We will miss this cacophony of sound!!

 

This is our usual transportation given zero roads in the area and definitely no air strips. Boats are the only transportation in the wild jungle. There are a number of workers on board the boat when we arrive and our two suitcases are there. In about 45 minutes we will be at the drop off point up river.

Our boat pulls up to the shore near a wooden walkway. At the bottom of the walkway are these beautiful black and white butterflies congregating. Maybe this is a Butterfly clay lick?

As usual, our boat slows down and speeds up at various times during our trip. Remember, this is the dry season and the waters can be quite shallow especially for a boat this size and with that weight. There are some small rapids to be navigated and very narrow areas close to sandbars and tree stumps/rocks. On our trip we hit one submerged rock which jolts the boat of course, but I don't make any remarks.

Near the water's edge there are different types of trees. Much more shorter trees. As well, we run past at least three illegal gold mining operations that are sifting sand in the river and pouring mercury into the river water. Not sure how often the authorities close them down with the realization that almost any government officials can be bought off here. 

At our meeting point the Refugio workers place our luggage in the back of a nice bus/van. We are the first people on board so grab both sides of the front row. Much better viewpoints and Lana can stretch her legs. This bus is fairly new and the air conditioning is first class and much appreciated! Many more tourists file onto the bus so they must have come from other lodges on the river. Many of the guides are on the bus and some staff.

We are on a rough dusty gravel road for the first thirty (30) minutes. Then a paved and incredibly straight road that will take us direct to Puerto Maldonado. On the paved road the driver needs to stop at various places for the speed bumps. Lana has nodded off some time ago and it is difficult not to be sleepy on the bus. Lots of farms, burn areas, no tall trees, 60 km/hour speed limit although our driver does 80 km/hour, gas stations, very basic homes and living conditions, roadside diners, lots of litter on the side of the road, grey/smoky skies and long concrete drainage ditches on the side of the road for I guess the rainy season. 

Some very strange vehicles are on this road. Large construction projects closer to Puerto Maldonado. Some cops (Policia) at various places pulling over motorcycles and other smaller vehicles. We arrive at Rainforest Expeditions office about 10:20 so about 70 minutes travel time from the river.

Puerto Maldonado is the gateway to the wild Amazon jungle. It sits between the Madre de Dios and Tambopata Rivers and is the capital of the Madre de Dios zone. This city was created in 1902 and was a Japanese colony. 

Lana pretty tired and not feeling well. We are sitting inside when I realize everyone has their luggage, but we don't. I head to the bus and our luggage is still inside! Yikes. It gets pulled out and all is safe. Lana passed out lying on the wooden bench. I use my WhatsApp to contact our accommodations and she will have someone pick us up for free in 10 minutes. In ten minutes a taxi shows up asking for Lana and we are off to our accommodations. No a/c in this cab, but only about a ten minute ride. Very dirty neighbourhood with gravel/clay dusty roads and a mix of commercial, industrial and residential. 

We are staying at Chimicuas House and booked this through hotels.com. I did not know though it was rated as a 2 Star Hotel. Oops! Rosa is our host and I have been in touch with her today and previously using my WhatsApp contact. Rosa's English is pretty decent although she has a strong accent. The shuttle service by the taxi is free to us and our room is on the second floor of this very modest property. They are doing renovations on the ground floor which creates a lot of noise. 

Our room is clean and well ordered. Our bathroom in the corner is one step up. Receive the wifi address and gave Rosa our bag of laundry. The next morning our bag of laundry will be waiting for us at breakfast. There is a washing machine on the premises, but no dryer given you just have to leave your wet laundry out and it will dry quickly. I learn quickly that our bathroom floor is full of water and my socks are soaked. Rosa indicates she thinks it is the water overflowing from the back and not the toilet bowl. She cleans up and puts a new rug down. We have air conditioning and although not powerful it works. 

I have a lot of draft blogs to update and get ready for being published, but I first check out what there is to do in this city. I am attracted to the Butterly Farm, but find out it is permanently closed. The Plaza de Armas is their city centre so that will be something to explore. Also, I check out local cuisine and drinks and where we might eat. Lana not eating lunch today. In fact, she is mostly sleeping today with her heat stroke. I do check in online for our flight tomorrow to Cusco. We are scheduled to depart at 13:25.

I was getting hungry and decided to eat at Burgos's Restaurant as it was recommended by Arturo at our Lodge and is very close to our accommodations. Wow, it is scorching hot in Puerto Maldonado and muggy. I choose a table near the outside so I can pull in more of the slight breeze. There are no windows here as they all need a fresh breeze to offset the heat and humidity. The place is very well appointed and other diners are dressed very well. Gives me some confidence. Also, the waiter turned on the overhead fan after I sat down. 

Rosa asked one of her people to give me a ride to the restaurant despite me saying I would walk. Hey, the ride on the back of what looks like a trail bike might be fun! It was fun and only about a two minute ride. 

One page from the menu at Burgos's and I decided to order the Tcacho con cesina dish. I use my Translate app to try and figure out what to order. Nobody speaks any English which is good with me. 

My order of Tacacho with Cesina at 28 Sol. I know the server looked at me a little weird when I ordered the dish. The plantains were a perfect match with this salted pork. I really enjoyed eating the dish with  a large bottle of water.

I return by foot to our 'hotel'. The road back is gravel/clay and super dusty. Very poor neighbourhood with tons of litter/garbage all over the place. Lana wanted some juice and a popsicle and there is a small store across the street. It has bars on windows and the door and in fact you don't enter their small shop. You stand outside the bars and make your request. I had my request written down in Spanish and they don't have either item. Wow, lots of security here which means a high crime area...

Our bathroom floor is flooded for the third time so we need to move to another room! They have tried fixing it twice with no results. Unfortunately the room we move to has not been using the a/c and is like walking into a sauna. They move our small fridge to our new room and two floor fans to help offset the heat. I do manage to update and publish at least three blogs this afternoon so that is a win. Lana still feeling sick and not ready to eat still (2 days now!). 

We decide around 18:00 to head downtown to the Plaza de Armas for a visit and find a restaurant. The taxi is air conditioned!!!!!!!! Plus, the driver is a real speedster and can weave in and out of traffic. Oh the joy!!! About a ten minute ride at a cost of 10 Sol so around $3.50CAD. Lots of Policia at the square and some families and teens/adults sitting on the benches. We walk around the perimeter of the square and check out potential restaurants at the same time.

Yes, we made it to their plaza and their multi-coloured sign. 

Lana's picture of a Japanese shaved ice maker. Shows the influence the japanese have here. 

We decide to head down a busy main street to find an authentic Peruvian cuisine restaurant. We come across Majta Restobar. Lana checks their ratings and they are 4.1 so that is pretty decent. They have a large fan near the entrance so we pick a table right across from the fan. Of course, only Spanish menus and language. No problem as we have an App. Lana not hungry so will only be drinking. She orders a lemonade with strawberry (something she had mentioned she would die for earlier and can't believe her luck that they would actually have one on the menu) and they come back to say they have no strawberries. She orders a Marasuya drink which is lemonade with passion fruit. It was freshly made, cold and tasty.

Fairly casual place as they use plastic chairs and tables. As we sit there the place gets more busy. Outside on the street lots of pedestrians and traffic. The usual unrelenting honking of horns. If a Policia showed up the traffic never paid any attention even if he was using his whistle. Yup, more chaos. From a safety perspective this area looks suspect which would explain all the police walking around. 

My dish of Costillas de Cerdo @ 25 Sol. Wow, the grilled pork ribs(?) were awesome and mostly seemed to be pork belly/fats etc. Super delicious! The fried potatoes were equal to the pork meat. 

We walk back to the main square to find a taxi or a tuk tuk. There is some safety concern getting into a strange vehicle, but we will take our chances. The fellow seems to be honest and no English, but we can translate enough. He doesn't know the address at first but then indicates he knows once Lana shows him the address from google maps. Lana negotiates to 8 Sol from 10 Sol because that's what our host Rosa said should be the cost. Interesting streets that are dusty and noisy and in some cases smelly. We learn that he drives by our place and then does a u-turn. Lana shows him Google Maps so he does find our place and we give him 10 Sol for his trouble. 

Our tuk tuk driver proudly behind the wheel. Basically a motorcycle with a chassis and some other add-ons. The back seats were comfortable, but you notice it can only go so fast. 

I remind Lana to take her Diamox prescription before she goes completely to sleep. I do more updating of my draft blogs to be ready for Lana's review tomorrow so I can publish. We have more issues with our room given there is no water pressure so the shower drips just like the bathroom sink. The blinds don't draw to a close. Despite the a/c being on and the two floor fans it is very warm in our room. We will need to leave both fans and a/c on the entire night/morning. We are both tired and ready for a sleep and no need to get up early. Lana falls asleep with a cold wet towel on her body to help with cooling off.